Thursday, June 22, 2006

Counting Down & Moving On (almost!)

It is official, the count down has started, for real: I'll be leaving Japan in less than 60 hours and it is time to start packing and stop blogging... Mentally I am trying to get myself into gear for the dmv appointments, tax returns, insurance phone calls, apartment searches and other 'fun activities' that starting next week will take the place of my daily Japanese classes. What an amazingly strange thought at this point!

My plans for the next few weeks are: Sunday June 25th leaving Japan and heading to my temporary home at my sister's house in Orange County, CA (-- while there I'll hopefully get everything taken off of in prep for school starting in August), on July 11th heading to Denmark for some quality time with the extended family (-- this will be the first time since *1997* that I spent over 3 weeks in my country - unbelievable!), August 4th back to the US and August 7th, ta-da!, school starts in Berkeley with "Math & Communications Camp". So yes, there is much more fun to come. I am not sure at this point how much I'll be able to maintain the blog during this time, but I do hope to be able to post an update now and then, so don't forget to check in, ok?!

What will I miss about Japan?
  • The language classes - adding new little pieces to the puzzle everyday continues to be great fun and it makes me feel "grrr" to have to put the pause on for a while. Luckily my friends at Japanese Pod101 are bound to keep me entertained until I can take back up my studies (hopefully later this year).
  • The fun people I've met & the "Matsudo J&F Soccer lounge".
  • THE FOOD, THE FOOD, THE FOOD ($1 kaiten sushi never being out of reach for example)
  • *Big* city life, little dramas and great discoveries awaiting around every corner
  • 24h 'Kombinis' on every other corner
  • Trains that go everywhere at any time, 20 times an hour.
  • Talking toilets (ok, just kidding).

    The Love & Hate List (i.e. these things can be annoying, but I know I'll miss the anyway)
  • Jingles everywhere - the vegetable song in the produce section of my supermarket, the fun little tune announcing the arrival of a train, the fake bird noises indicating (to the blind) the location of the stairwell.
  • The cheerful army of "Irashaimase!" sayers greeting my upon entrance to any given store, not once, not twice, but up to at least 50 times (and probably longer, but I've always had to leave the store at this point).
  • Girls in Maid-Costumes, walking with their knees bend inwards, because they think it is cute

    What I look forward to giving up...
  • Overcrowded trains, random people sleeping and snoring happily on my shoulder.
  • "Mushiatsui" = Hot & humid weather
  • Japanese style toilets

    What I am looking forward to back home...
  • A few select, good foods: Red wine (ok, technically not food I guess...), Blue Cheese, Chocolate, a nice little steak from El Toro Meats & Danish hot dogs, of course!
  • Hanging out with the family, first in the OC & since in Denmark
  • Being re-united with my 2 boxes of shoes (although this will take another little while I fear)


    With this, I'll leave you for a little while - Ja Mata & see you later...
  • More last minute fun...

    Squeezed in 'just one more' little last minute activity today -- a photography exhibit at the Tokyo Metropolitan Museum of Photography featuring a British photographer named Michael Kenna, presenting the black & white landscapes he has captured in Japan over the last 4 years or so. The show was *amazing* -- you can check out these images on display on his website. This one was my favorite shot: "Fierce Wind" quite dramatic...

    Wednesday, June 21, 2006

    サッカーワルドカップ - Soccer World Cup!

    Today's honorable random mention goes to... The FIFA Soccer World Cup. As you may have noticed the soccer world cup slogan is something like "uniting people as friends" - I don't know if that is actually working out in Germany, but in Matsudo, Chiba-ken, Japan it has been a huge success: in my dorm there are a lot of soccer fans, from all over the world. From the landlord, who gladly puts up multiple projectors when Japan is playing, to the folks from Burma who have taught me that soccer in fact used to be quite popular there until the military junta decided to redirect all funds towards guns, to the Indian guy cheering for Iran due to the ethnic ties between India and the Middle East... It's a riot. Every night the soccer fans congregate in front of our shared big screen TV to watch the days highlights and games, with people dropping out as the night drags on (the last game of the day is on at 4AM Japan time...) in the hallways the Konbanwas have been replaced by "Which game are you watching tonight?" and "have you heard that Team X beat Team Y?", alliances change quickly and sympathies are with which ever resident's team is playing tonight.
    Japan, much too everyone's dismay, has struggled so far, loosing to AU and playing a 0-0 tie with Croatia. Friday 4AM will be the deciding match for everyone's darling: Japan will be meeting Brazil in Dortmund and half of J&F House will be getting up very early to cheer them on. The odds are not looking too favorable, but even the Brazilian residents have agree that Japan should- and deserves to win this one: it will be much more fun for all of us if they stay in the game...

    Nihon Minka-en

    ... And in the spirit of checking off "things-to-do" on my list, I also finally made it out to the Nihon Minka-en -- an "Open-Air Folk House Museum, [it] is an attempt to recreate 24 historical buildings from 15 different prefectures, dating from the late 17th to the early 20th century." I've been meaning to go for quite a while, but the recent start of rainy season has complicated matters a bit - whenever I've had time to go, it has been raining. Last Sunday was no different but I decided to bite the bullet since i really wanted to see this place and I was not disappointed (albeit somewhat wet).
    It's quite impressive to see the detail of the craftmanship that went into these places, the regional differences in the building designs (steep roofs in regions with lots of snow for example) and it also helped me understand certain Japanese customs, such as the "always taking your shoes off when entering a home" for example: as you may be able to see in the second image, a lot of the houses were laid out in such a way that the first space/area you reach when entering was used for everything from horses, to storage and general dirty-work - whereas the living quarters were on a slightly elevated area off to one side -- with this layout in mind, it makes complete sense that one would shed the outdoor + dirty area shoes before stepping up onto the living area space, right?! At least this is now my personal theory, which may of course be completely off :)
    While at the Minka-en, I also enjoyed a serving of Sansai Soba -- Soba noodles with "Mountain Vegetables". I think I described the mountain vegetables, aka young fern, before, but I've tried adding a picture as it really is quite a pretty, albeit unusual veggie.

    Tea Ceremony - Dozou!

    Finally made it to a traditional tea ceremony last week - the WLE crew took us to the Imperial Palace Hotel and it was a fun afternoon...

    Friday, June 16, 2006

    Tokyo Bizarro

    As I may have mentioned before one of my favorite things about Tokyo are the many strange and totally un-expected sights and events one seem's to come across here. The last in this series was last week's dinner at Zakuro a Turkish/Persian restaurant close to Niporri Station. I have chosen the Nippori area for my weekly get together with Yoriko, because i wanted to check out the temples and old shopping streets located in the area. We did that and then set out for a place to get some dinner, stumbling on Zakuro which had been mentioned with one-line in my Time-Out guide book as excentric. It was so indeed, not so much because you sit on the floor, while feasting on an enourmous amounts of (delicious) middle eastern food, while watching/listing to Turkish pop music video clips and finally being entertained by a (thai looking) belly dancer, but mostly due to the manager who runs the place as an interactive Persian comedy, dressing people up in local garb, match-making across table and force feeding persian cotton candy to the guests - very very amusing.

    Friday, June 09, 2006

    Girl's Day(s) Out

    Wrapping up yet another mad Tokyo week, while waiting for the Soccer World Cup opening game to kick off at 1AM Tokyo time (-- it's great to be in Japan during soccer world cup, as they are as excited about it as any EU country 'back home' could be.) With only little over 2 more weeks left in Japan i have once and for all given up on the idea of even experiencing some quiet time while here, Tokyo just doesn't lend itself to relaxation very well and I am equally determined to enjoy every minute of this wonderfully mad place and -pace, even if it means to occasional train coma. Fortunately being completely passed out on the train is the standard here, snoring and drooling even doesn't seem to phase anyone...

    My German friend Christine took left again this morning after about 10 days packed with new fun adventures, taking me through another few items on my 'things I must still do' list (which however keeps growing continuously :). We kicked off her visit with a half day trip that took us from Asakusa (old Tokyo the way you'll see it portrayed in movies and guide books), via a Sumida River boat cruise to Odaiba, the futuristic home of building's like the famous Fuji Terebi Biru as well as Tokyo's artificial beach (and the Tokyo Big Sight where the Design Festa from a few weeks back to place).



    Last Saturday was Christine's Birthday, so in the spirit of general girlyness we spent the bulk of that day cruising through the lovely little streets and shops of Daikanyama, which continues to be my favorite part of Tokyo. On a side note, the funny thing is that Daikanyama is surprisingly underrepresented in all guide books and I have even met several Tokyo-ites who have never been there, despite the fact that it is just so wonderfully quaint. Quoting the above linked website: "Tourists flock to the big-name glitz of the Ginza strip and the teenage circus of Harajuku. Locals head to the quieter streets of Daikanyama. A low-rise neighborhood chock-full of quirky boutiques and sidewalk cafes, Daikanyama often encloses leafy hidden courtyards within its clusters of shops and homes." perfect, just perfect.
    Our plan was to finish off the birthday celebration with a visit to the New York Bar in the Park Hyatt, which is the one Scarlett Johanson & Bill Murray hang out in in Lost in Translation (I have been 'saving' this one for a special event, given the $30 cover they charge just to enter, being a central feature in an Oscar winning movie does pay off I guess...) However we never made it that far, due to a great restaurant recommendation Christine had received from Misao, Amazon.co.jp's PR manager: Cube Zen features seating, literally in concrete cubes as longs as very nice Japanese fusion cooking & I'd highly recommend to anyone looking for a cool place to have dinner in Tokyo.

    Next up was a Sunday day trip out to Hakone a little mountain resort about 90 minutes outside of Tokyo famous for it's proximity to Mt.Fuji and it's hot springs. We did the "Hakone Free Pass" loop, which basically means that you buy an 'all-you-can-eat', bus, train, gondola, boat pass that takes you through everything worth seeing while there. We were lucky that the initially overcast weather cleared up enough for us to be able to enjoy the great Fuji views and overall this really was a beautiful trip/loop - my only regret being that we weren't able to stay over night and enjoy the hot springs and maybe even do a bit of hiking, something I've been missing a bit as of late.



    Christine went to Kyoto on Monday & Tuesday, so our next joint adventure was a Wednesday 7AM trip to Tsukiji, yep, that's the fish market. While getting up at 5 in order to make it there was a bit of a drag, I have to say that this was definitely a sightseeing highlight for me. The market is huge and very very busy. It's an active market and not a tourist attraction and we almost got ourselves run over many times, by cars and little transportation devices buzzing about at a completely maddening speed in what to me seemed like total chaos. But, we got to see an amazing amount of very interesting fish & see food and were even treated to sampling fresh tuna belly - cut right there and served to us as finger food to be dipped in a big jar of soy. Best sashimi I ever had.Another fun aspect of the market was the language spoken. Among the variations of Japanese are the versions spoken by men and women respectively - Tsukiji is definitely a man's world - it was very fun listening to. A few notes on the photos included here (I have another 20 in case you happen to be looking for funky fish images :) -- the first one shows a couple of the fish market dudes getting ready to cut up some nice big chunks of frozen tuna (the pinkish things seen on the wheelbarrow). And the next one, well, that would be breakfast!